This restaurant has been around for about a year, located in the heart of Genova, and a stone’s throw from the breathtaking piazza De Ferrari. It has a clear ambition of establishing itself as a “go-to” address within the Ligurian city. Located in the Portoria district, within the Piccapietra neighbourhood. It was here where a young Genoese boy showed his gesture of revolt, that everyone knows in Italy as the Balilla during the second half of the eighteenth century. Davide Cannavino, after working in Tuscany for a short period, returned to Genova, after being called back by his patron Enrico Vinelli to take the reins of the Hosteria Ducale. Cannavino was wanted for his talent and open-mindedness but also for his evident attachment to traditional cuisine. Cannavino, at the time of Voglia Matta a Voltri, could rightly be considered a sort of Balilla of Ligurian and Genoese cuisine. The “stone” he threw into the pond has caused concentric circles that have certainly influenced restaurants in the city. Cannavino today is called to lead an important, well-kept and welcoming place. Perhaps the location can be considered a bit dark, all elements play on a shade of black with ocher-colored materials and wood. You’ll find neoclassical carvings on the walls, giving off an atmosphere of great impact. In the welcoming focaccia you can perceive contrasts of flavors, but also references to elements you can clearly identify. Echoed also by tacos of Iberian jamon, cones with pesto, Bloody Mary tomatoes, cantaloupe melon and centopelli tripe fried in chickpea flour with sherry sauce. Representing a beat to beat along the coast of the Mediterranean. Raw materials of great quality are used. As well as creativity and complexity in the very personal versions of Cappon Magro and Sardenaira. The same can be said for the stuffed Tortelli with pesto, ricotta, raw shrimp and prescinseua. The ciupin, is a seafood soup with barbed fish, shellfish, tomato water, ginger and spices. All the dishes have a clear reference to ancient recipes. They are presented with great aesthetic care along with prestigious tableware. The dishes are generally good, sometimes excellent, in most cases satisfying and complete. The edginess from an acidic or savory flavor boost, except perhaps for the soup, are rather restrained and concealed. This makes the scope for evolution, growth and depth something that an establishment of this level can still obtain. The desserts are intriguing and modern. Similar to the service which is young and attentive. It runs impeccably under the direction and ideas of Alessio, a revelation of absolute value for his grace, creativity and inspiration. Could he be the new Balilla of the Genoese gastronomic scene?
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