If the saying is true that Genova only makes sense if you look at it from the sea, then the Marin fully fulfils this task. Situated within the architectural complex of Porto Antico, the restaurant is located on the top floor of the warehouse that houses Eataly. It offers the truest and most evocative glimpse of the big city. A view of candid constructions stacked and looming over a port that represent life, commerce, and encounters along with a varied game of scents and colors. Marco Visciola, the chef of the Marin, interprets the fascinated and curious point of view of an imaginary traveller through a fresh, proactive, visible and colourful cuisine. While at the same time remaining attentive to the Ligurian tradition without being wearily nostalgic. There is no shortage of pesto, green sauce, muscles, focaccia, farinata, and aromatic herbs. The only difference is that they are presented originally and unusually. Vegetables play an essential role, underlining the rustic soul of these lands. The same is true for seafood, both poor and prestigious. All products are treated and cooked in a way that guarantees a great concentration of flavors, mainly working with flames, smoke, coal, ash. There is never lack of anchovies, their meat and their scent. Also not lacking is the acidic tone, the element which unites it with lemon, vegetables and fermentation. Also, you will not find a shortage of homemade bread and the elegance of delicious sardenairabrioches (a typical Ligurian focaccia). Combinations concentrated in dishes such as Spaghetto Martini, shaken directly at the table with anchovy and lemon sauce served with Oscietra caviar and gin flavored Taggiasca olives. The same is true for the intriguing Finanziera dal Mare, “quinto quarto” (liver, tripe, coral), sea urchins, cockles and colourful and crunchy sweet and sour vegetables. Lastly the Pescato Asado, a slice of Atlantic croaker cooked on the flame with hints of smoke and aromatic herbs that are decidedly fascinating and overbearing. The theme of a traveller’s journey also characterizes the desserts, presented as a postcard of memories sent from Italian locations. Then described through flavors where the sugary sweetness is just a sudden and fleeting sensation. Liguria seen from the sea, therefore: a game of perspectives conducted with grace and competence by an impeccable all-female staff. The final notion is that here at the port, under the wind and sails, between ice cream stands and flags, the “Marin” represents one of the most convincing insights into gastronomic and cultural sentiments that animate Genova and its region.
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