The dining room retains its Belle Epoque atmosphere of when it was a cafè chantant. With its stage, backstage, and beautifully restored frescos of the Eden Kursaal Theatre. Where internationally renowned artists performed including the Bella Otero star of the Folies Bergères. In 2007 a new team was acquired that then inaugurated the Hotel I Portici in 2008 after a spectacular restoration involving all five floors of the building. In 2012 the restaurant won the Michelin star and from August 2020 it has been led by the Roman executive chef Gianluca Renzi, born in 1989. For ten years Renzi worked alongside the three-starred Heinz Beck with whom he has strung together prestigious collaborations in luxury establishments in New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Berlin and London. The position that until July was held by Chef Emanuele Petrosino and before that by Agostino Iacobucci in addition to inspiring the ‘gourmet’ cuisine also inspired the idea of the Osteria Portici on the hotel terrace. Effective technique and good knowledge of the raw material used inspires a cuisine of great appeal, by engaging reference to the Bolognese culinary traditions and the Roman and Tuscan path followed by the chef. Later, the intense and well-balanced starters come, like the cacio and pepe chips and the Roman gnocco with mint and anchovies. But also the steamed bao with Bolognese sauce, and sage béchamel. We then continue with the amuse bouche, a sphere shrimp cocktail; the deconstructed Panzanella, with lime-marinated amberjack and datterino tomato; a fun and fresh dish with a delicate iodine note. The sumptuous and convincing duck ravioli (cleaned, boned, cooked at a low temperature and wrapped in a thin sheet), are seasoned with sweet potato mousse and Apennine porcini mushrooms in three different consistencies. You’ll end the meal with the ‘Clementino’ a dessert with a crunchy base, a false meringue of mascarpone, orange sorbet and mandarin gel. There are two tasting menus: the 5-course menu (85€) and the 7-course menu (105€). There is a wide wine list and an appealing wine cellar obtained from the old icehouse from the fourteenth century. It was formally the icehouse of Rocca di Galliera where the Papal legate (a personal representative of the Pope) resided seven hundred years ago, annexed to the palace in the early 1900s. This is, overall, a charming place dedicated to tastings and special events.
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