PREMIO EMME PRODOTTI TIPICI ACCOGLIENZA IN ITALIA 2020
Here we are in a place known for great Italian hospitality. Antonello Magistà has an innate sense of hospitality like few others. He is attentive to the details, passionate about hotels, and a competent, curious wine enthusiast as few others are. The atmosphere reflects his way of doing things: there is outdoor seating where it is nice to have an aperitivo or to sit and chat after a meal. Inside there are three welcoming dining areas that are well-furnished with wood furniture but without ornate excess. The table settings are simple and modern. A difficult change of hands took place here recently, one of those rare experiments that was perfectly successful: after years of working with her son, Maria Cicoriella has handed the reins over to the young Antonio Zaccardi. He comes with a lot of experience on his shoulders, including a stint at Crippa ad Alba, where he learned to master starters and produce. His cooking has a lot of substance and personality which is in constant evolution. It proposes the regional flavors of Italy in a decisive and confident manner. Everything is based on combining two, or a maximum of three elements, which blend perfectly. Naturally there is pasta, but this is one of the rare places in the South where the risotto is simply cooked perfectly. You mustn’t miss the one called pizza marinara, a mix of technique and flavor that is perfectly constructed. Another advantage, beyond the seasonal variations in the menu, is that the cooking is low in fat. Olive oil, quite rightly, dominates here. And Maria? She now has fun in the kitchen making bread. Her taralli all’olio are addicting. We think that the cook should be a bit more daring with his meats, not just with the lamb but also with horse which is still very common. The desserts which close the meal are not heavy and are not too sweet. A bonus is the fun found in some of the proposals such as the peanuts and crodino in the aperitivo or the revisited popcorn in the desserts. In sum, a great restaurant that jumped on the trend begun by the Locanda del Pescatore and by Don Alfonso.
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