At times to describe a restaurant, words are not enough. Instead in the case of St. Hubertus we can summarize the entire experience in three words: cook the mountain. San Cassiano, thanks to the restaurant by Nortbert Niederkofler, has become a destination for food lovers the world over. Chef Niederkofler’s concept is very simple in thought as much as it is fascinating and difficult in execution. In fact, in this restaurant, the true protagonist is the mountain. Freshwater fish from the rivers and local lakes, and the same goes for the meat, the vegetables and everything that there is to eat here. There is attention given to “foraging,” the practice of gathering without damaging nature, to fermentations and to all of the traditional sustainable methods of cooking in these parts. The meal begins with a very diverting game. Bread and tomato? A bruschetta is served with tomato, which in reality is not a tomato, but a fermented prune which is like a tomato in its consistency. A trick created just to amaze and to emphasize the philosophy of cooking here: care and attention must be given to the food, without hurry nor superficiality. The same goes for the trota alla mugnaia (milker’s trout). It is very good and recalls all in all the more classic sogliola (sole) alla mugnaia. However, beyond using trout in place of the sole, it also has a fermented plum acting as an acidifier in place of lemon. Barley risotto and mountain herbs, and ravioli and good Enrico (very similar to wild spinach) are among the pasta dishes. The cow’s tongue with blueberries and the wild teal close a meal which you will remember for a long time for its intensive flavor, integral philosophy and impeccable technique. The wine list has some significant markups, but trust Lukas Gerges without reservation, a very well-prepared and attentive sommelier. Two menus are available: “I grandi classici” and “Cook the mountain.” Unfortunately, it is not possible to order à la carte.
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