PREMIO S.PELLEGRINO & ACQUA PANNA CUOCO DEL FUTURO 2020
If he was not a cook, he would be a theatre actor; one of those who lives for the audience’s reaction, who wants to hear sighs and gasps at every cliffhanger. Instead he has fun at Sum Davide Guidarain his kitchen that is in view of the dining area. He observes and enjoys the reactions following every dish that is served. He walks onto the scene and completes almost all of the dishes at the table. He observes and feeds off of the emotions, the expressions of surprise and the uneasiness of his guests. He reassures with traditional ingredients and combinations. He shocks with the violence of flavor that he ignites in every dish. His aim is to surprise, but not only necessarily with the aesthetics. The presentations are simple and almost underdone. They are like the devil’s advocate: “Don’t get too cocky my boy. No matter how good you are don’t ever let them see you coming. You gotta keep yourself small. Innocuous. Be the little guy….” This is what Al Pacino says in the famous film and what David says to his creations. He enjoys this “wow” effect that they create on your palate. What impresses about the dishes is the structure, the consistency and the texture. It does not matter if it is beans or a layer of bell peppers. Even the mullet is cooked but maintains the structure of being raw. Everything makes us taste, salivate and enjoy, including the variations of umami which bring full complexity and animal strength. Long and structured, modern dishes with the presence of a lot of vegetables have concentrated flavor which becomes violent. The legumes are treated like royalty. You can taste the strength of the sea in his fish soup which has an intense pungency and aggressive marine intensity. It is like a sudden jump into the sea with your mouth open. Only 25 years old, half-blooded Campano and half-blooded Sicilian and a strong ambition to pave his own way in this world. He does it with a nice team which in the dining room does not only welcome the guests with elegance but guides and advises proposing a tasting menu paired to wines. In conclusion, Davide Guidara’s cooking is modern, studied, recognizable and profoundly Mediterranean. You perceive the salty and earthy air; it is sometimes a crisp morning breeze and at others it is a stormy sea breeze.
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