At the end of the Senigallia boardwalk, in what was once a seaside bathing facility, you will find one of the best restaurants in Italy. Uliassi, with the genius Mauro and his brigade in the kitchen and his sister Catia in the dining room. The dishes are mainly seafood, coming from the Adriatic sea, in all of its deepest subtleties. The lunch or dinner always begins with a welcome which has become the trademark of Uliassi, the unmissable loacker of foie gras. In the Marchigiana tradition, seafood is mixed with produce and with animal proteins. Mauro respects this tradition with an obvious modern slant. Ossobuco di mare con trippe di baccalà (cod) and especially the ciauscolo oyster with iced salt, is truly stupefying and delicious. The Italian farming tradition is also represented, where nothing is wasted, as seen in the pancotto, (cooked bread) sea urchin and almonds. The canocchie a-la coque and sour sauce and the eel and citrus demonstrate that this kitchen has a wide scope, which for its lightness and intense taste manages to have few equals. We tried two dried pasta dishes, gobbetti with chicory extract and parsley sauce and fusilloni with lardo di polpo. Seafood, but also products hunted in the wild and lamb. The lamb fuori di testa is the worthy savory conclusion to our wonderful meal, in which only parts of lamb head are used. Mattia Casabianca, with experience under Paco Torreblanca and Michel Roux, has been responsible for the restaurant’s pastries since the beginning of this year. The chocolate soufflé and the Lagavulin close the meal. Catia’s service and her style is like Mauro’s cooking: light and elegant. The wine list spans with wise acuity; the markups on the wines are significant, but acceptable. Genius cooking with a rare elegance and a sea view. Is there better? Definitely not! A menu à la carte is available beyond the Lab (a tasting menu), which is a plus.
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