Opened in 2020 in Rome’s Testaccio district, the bistro Conciabocca offers a modern take on Roman cuisine, free of folklore and unnecessary stylistic flourishes. In the kitchen, Giulio Burtone, together with Giulio Marchesini in the dining room, has created a lively offering that is technically accomplished yet immediately appealing. Devotees of traditional dishes will not be disappointed, while what stands out most is the contemporary attention given to vegetables, handled with care even when they play a supporting role. The cooking remains firmly rooted in local tradition, allowing only well-judged creative detours. Service is professional and friendly in a welcoming setting, almost like a rustic trattoria. The wine list is thoughtful and intriguing, with options by the glass.