At Roscioli, the delicatessen with a kitchen on Via dei Giubbonari in Rome, you dine among the counters of cheeses and cured meats, beneath the hanging hams. The bread and the white pizza from the eponymous bakery are excellent. To start the meal, the fried Adriatic anchovies with lime mayonnaise and smoked paprika are outstanding. The best dish is the Carbonara: mezze maniche pasta, artisanal guanciale, eggs from Paolo Parisi, Pecorino Romano DOP, and a trio of peppers, with a glossy sauce that binds beautifully. The menu also includes a modern take on saltimbocca: pink veal sirloin, Parma ham, ham mayonnaise, and sage powder. Service is courteous and precise. Roscioli is at its best when it stays close to Roman tradition.