The Roman countryside around Olevano is a treasure trove of incredible flavors, and in this historic, cultured, welcoming restaurant it finds its fullest and most accomplished expression, which has long placed it at the very top of our guide. Founded in the immediate postwar years, the kitchen is now in the hands of the founders’ grandson, Giovanni Milana, who cooks starting from a deep knowledge of local produce. It is impossible to exhaust the full repertoire in a single visit; the famous cannelloni are certainly the house’s best-known dish. The town’s culinary tradition lives on through artichokes and fried brain, while the first courses are a true celebration, from tortelli filled with roast veal and Bassiano ham to the classic pappardelle with white courtyard ragù. Cured meats, cheeses, and homemade desserts frame an unforgettable offering, served with enthusiasm and expertise. Finally, the wine list takes you on a tour of Italy, with particular attention to regional producers, especially from the land of Cesanese.